It’s Greek to me

Saturday June 19th – Just Drop Me Off Over There

As we leave the Turkey check point, the bus drivers is walking up the aisle, then who’s driving the bus?

After we pass the signs saying thank you for visiting Turkey, we´re back on the dark highway.
We drive over a painted line with a Turkey flag on one side and a Greece flag on the other.  The guard with the automatic weapon gives us a friendly wave.

Arriving at the Greece checkpoint, authorities take our passports as we wait outside for 40 minutes.

Finally, on our way, I sleep until 7:30am.  As we stop at Makeainia restaurant,  I notice soldiers inside.

Greece is beautiful so far, greener than Turkey with bigger mountains and the smell of fresh mint is in the air.  There are 11 million in Greece and it´s 98% Greek Orthodox.

It is 10:45am and the driver asks where am I going? “Athens”.  “Well we are here, this is it,” he tells they and me stop the bus on some busy street and I hop off, with no idea where I am.

Just my luck, the hostel is only two blocks away.  As I search, the neighborhood on the way there is in bad shape but the hostel is in a good location.  It is next to the largest outdoor farmers market in Athens with tons of produce.

I check in with George at the Zeus Hostel.  The place is in good condition (painted orange and green) and my 4th floor room has a/c.  The hostel is 5 blocks from all the major attractions.  I read a guidebook and plan my week.  My roommate is a paranoid Japanese guy.

I grab some cherries at the farmers market (3lbs for $4) and walk down to the large outdoor Athens Flea Market on Monastiraki Pl. near the base of the Acropolis.  I need to buy some more clothes, but most of it is touristy.

In the middle of it, all is the Library of Hadrian (132AD).  The outdoor area is about an acre and its columns are a good introduction for tomorrow.

Later I discover a large impressive catholic church with really loud bells.  Back at the hostel, I hang out with the guests.

Up on the hostel roof there is a bar and loud music.  My third roommate is 17 and from Texas.  He tells me about the nightlife on the Greek islands – free alcohol if you are naked.

Sunday June 20th – The Acropolis and much more

Pleasantly overcast today, I walk past the Roman Agora and up hill to the Acropolis.  It is on top of a mountain so the view of the city is amazing.  Up winding slippery stone stairs past old churches, springs, and caves to a beautifully preserved large amphitheater called the Herod Atticus Odeon made with white marble.

Next inside the main area of the Acropolis is the Temple of Athena Nike (goddess of victory).  Restoration is going on.

I walk up to the very top and arrive at the Parthenon (447Bc).  It is interesting what lasts and what fades away in this world.  The structure is impressive, with more than 30 columns.  It is also under restoration.  It looks like the capital of an accomplished civilization (like the pyramids).  I cannot
imagine what it must be like to be Greek and have this be your history.  Amazing.

There is a 360 view of Athens with a sea of crowded white homes, with rounded mountains and the Mediterranean on the horizon.  Greek women park rangers are around keeping an eye on everyone, making sure nothing is touched and everyone keeps moving.  The sky has cleared and it has really warmed up.  The Parthenon against the blue sky is pure artwork.  Built with 16500 pieces of white marble during the Doric period, some of the carved scenes show the fall of ancient Troy.

The Parthenon was blown up in 1687 and some pieces are in the British museum.

Next to the Parthenon is a smaller version called the Erechtheion, an iconic temple for the deities.  Its nice not having any sales people around, just a few dogs and cats.

After taking in all in, I head down the steps to the exit.

A good number of roads in Turkey and Greece are square grey cobblestone.  1/2 mile nearby is the black and concrete Acropolis Museum.  The entrance area is built over an ancient neighborhood dated from 500bc to 900ad and has open areas, some of which are covered in thick walk able glass.  Inside, no photos are allowed (darn).

The Greeks were the first to use coins (silver) as currency around 450BC, first to have a democracy that included everyone, and the first to have a paid military.  The Persians destroyed the city once, but it recovered under
Pericles.  Its golden era was ended by the plague around 420BC.

Inside also have many walk able glass floors, sculptures, and reliefs, carvings from the Parthenon, Kore statues, and naked statues with kids giggling at them, lions, heads, and many statues from the great sculptor Phidias.  Inside there´s also smooth white marble floors with gray walls and men in suits watching over everything.  After seeing the exhibits and statues from the temple of Athena Nike, I learn about restoring and cleaning the statues with “lasers.”  There´s a video and carvings of the Parthenon.

After the museum, I walk up the street to the Parliament Building and Syntagma Square, and the tomb of the Unknown Soldier, which is next to the sprawling National Garden.  It´s a large nice park with trails and lakes, artwork, and plenty of shade.  Outside past a movie theater where “Twilight : New Moon” is coming soon, to a grand building which looks like the Greek white house (the Zappeion) with a large fountain.

Next is the grand Archaeological Site of Olympian and Hadrian Gate.
It started around 515BC and was finished in 131BC by the Romans.  Of

the original 104, 60ft marble columns, only 16 remain.  I walk over to the huge Panathinaiko stadium, which looks modern.  It´s all marble with giant Olympic flags.  I travel past several embassies, a statue of Harry S. Truman, and the War Museum, with jets out front.  Before heading back to the hostel, I stop by Syntagma Square where there is a stage and live music.

The Greeks come out at night:

Around 9:30, I decide to see the free concert around the corner in the square.  It is full of people with a large stage complete with massive speakers, smoke, and a purple and blue light show.  They play hip-hop from Great Brittan between bands.  I cannot understand one rapping band at first and then I realize they are rapping in Greek.

I walk to the metro/flea market area and it is busy too.  Lit up and full of people with another band.  The Acropolis at the top of the mountain is beautifully illuminated at night.

Monday June 21st – Skinny Dipping

George shows me where the bus station is for a 70km 1 hour trip south to the Cape of Sounion.  (90 cents)

The old women on the bus help to confirm where I am going. The bus is taking the winding coastal route and the deep blue water looks nice and the horizon is crisp.  It´s 98 today.

2hrs later to the last stop at Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon.  Built around the 5th century BC (destroyed by the Persians of course), it’s located at the southern most tip on top of a
mountain next to the water, similar to the Parthenon, and lots of names have been carved in it.

There are quail and grasshoppers above, and container ships, sailboats, and Luxury yachts anchored below.  There´s not much around, just a few homes and very small beach side resorts.  It´s mostly rolling hills with scrub brush and rock.  I hike down to a very small hidden beach and discover that it is clothing optional.  There are only about 10 of us.  I find my own spot and go for it.  Skinny-dipping in the Mediterranean on a  Greek beach on a clear summer’s day.  When’s the last time that the sun shined where the sun don’t shine?
(censored photo)

If you think back, the days of your life when you saw someone naked were usually pretty good days.  The water’s nice and the underwater moss feels like carpet.  Maui is still better.

I hike back up to the bus stop and 10 minutes later, I am headed back to Athens.  Back in town for weight training at the hostel and hanging out on the roof.

Tuesday June 22nd – Delphi Rules

The hotels in Olympia are outrageously expensive, so I decide to go to popular Delphi for an overnight visit instead.  I check out, grab some rainier cherries for $2, and follow the directions to the bus stations that are completely wrong.

Eventually, I´m on the 1pm bus to Delphi.  The Greece countryside is picturesque with green mountains and

farmland.  The weather is perfect today with a nice breeze.  The winding roads lead us into the high mountains.  Delphi is small and gorgeous.  I love it.  The town is just two narrow streets lined with small inns and cafes.

It snows from Late December to March and there´s a large lake below. A short walk away is the Delphi site and museum.  On the way there, a wave of joy and happiness washes over me.  I am just so happy right now.  The view of the valley below is grand.

The archaeology site is incredible: The Temple of Apollo, Temple of Athena, amphitheater, ruins, Kastalia spring, terraced platforms,
all from 14th – 4th century BC.

The Ancient Greeks believed Delphi to be the spiritual and geographical center of the world.  As I walk uphill, I notice giant sprinklers for brush fires.  There are pine trees and giant gray granite mountains.  At the top of the trail is the well-preserved 180m x 25m long stadium.  It holds 7000 people built in 584BC

you can still see the judge’s seats.  It is cool.  Down hill a little to the Fountain Castalia, a natural spring, and then the Gymnasium, the temple of Athena (sanctuary of Athena Pronaia),
and a round temple called the Tholos.

Up at the Delphi museum, they have amazing bronze, gold, and marble carvings and reliefs.
You can take photos, but not with yourself in the picture with the statues.  They consider it inappropriate.  (These are our gods)

Delphi declined after Romans took over and moved everything (including major decisions) to Rome in 200AD.

Back in town to visit various shops and watch the World Cup.  Dinner on my hotel balcony has an awesome view overlooking the lake and valley.  It´s nice to have my own room with a full size bed.

Wednesday June 23rd -

After checking out and enjoying the view one last time, I buy bus ticket back to Athens where it´s lightly rainíng.

As I walk into Larissa metro station, I realize Greece has the nicest subway system I have ever seen.

Back at the Zeus hostel, I can hear another concert around the corner from my room.  Later I go upstairs to hang out on roof.

Thursday June 24th -

I check out and walk over to Hadrian’s Library and the Roman Agora. Buskers are break dancing in the square nearby.
I take the metro to airport but halfway there the train stops and everyone gets off.  The tracks are closed due to special circumstances.
Its 4pm. Trains are only available today from 5-7pm.  My flight is 6:25pm.  The station manager tells me to take a bus but I take the 5pm train and arrive ok at airport.

Amazingly, Security let me through with olives, almonds, chocolate, and a sealed can of dolmas – much nicer than Tel-Aviv.
Up in the air with Rome in front of me.  Ciao!