Walk like an Egyptian

Sunday June 6th – Leaving Israel, Be Gentle

Up at 3am, I walk 1 hour through the nighttime streets of Tel-Aviv to the train station and catch the 4:38am train to Ben Gurion Airport.

At the airport, security is extensive.  After going through the x-Ray machine, matching stickers are placed on your passport, luggage, and yourself.  Everyone then goes to a security station, where your entire bag is unpacked, spread out and everything is x-rayed individually and swabbed for explosive residue.

Then, you are taken to a private area, where your pockets are emptied and the contents x-rayed again, and the guard uses a wand to check for metal – twice.  Then he feels you “almost” all over thoroughly to check for anything (jeez buy me dinner first).  Next, they go to the airline counter with your passport and check you in.  In addition, they constantly ask you travel questions the entire time.

“What if I had been late to the
airport?”  I ask.

“Then you miss your flight, you must arrive 3 hrs early.”

I realize that Israel Airlines and Israeli Airports are the weakest and most dangerous in the world, otherwise they would not need to have the highest security in the world.  I would feel and be a lot safer in the Vancouver Canada airport.
It is akin to having barbed wire around your house right now.

A guard now escorts a small group of us past the additional security and immigration.  Israel makes sure tourists do not know about all this security, otherwise fewer would come to Israel.

A quick flight to Athens and the coastal waters are gorgeous shades of blue & green.  I have a 2-hour layover and the Greeks are great: quick simple security, no forms, and no passport issues.  So nice.  Everyone is commenting on how nice the reduced security is.

EGYPT

As I land in Cairo (20 million), it is about 97 degrees (36), and the air reminds me of Phoenix.

I ask the information desk for directions and they say catch the free blue shuttle to the bus station

At the bus station, the office attendant says take bus 356.  However, almost all the writing is in Arabic, so after about 30 minutes I ask him again, and he says take bus #356 or #27.  Ok.
This is not working and only half the buses have English numbers on them.
So for the third time the office attendant says take the 356, 27, or the 111.
“How much?”  I ask for the bus.
100 Egyptian pounds.
Yah right, that is about $18 USD.

So I decide to take the free shuttle back to the airport.  The information desk is no help so I go to another, which is also no help but a guy at the info desk next to me decides to help.  I learn the bus should be 2 EP (36 cents).
He talks to two other regular guys who escort me back to the bus station and immediately on to a waiting bus.
The trust sometimes in your fellow human is amazing.

But where to get off?  I guess near Nasser metro station and I figure it out.  There are no numbers on the buildings but I find the Wake Up Hostel on Ramses’ St on the 7th floor, where Yasser checks me in and gives me a free Egyptian juice.
Its 6:30pm now and I have been going since 3am.  Time for a rest.  Whew.

Later I walk around, ‘noticing three stray cats in Egypt.  I meet some Americans and find very little fresh food, just tiny stores and restaurants.
Back at the hostel for dinner, Egyptian TV (Oprah, Fraiser, and 20 Arab stations), and reading all about Cairo and the Egyptians.  Israel gets the most US aid, Egypt is second.

Monday June 7th – The Pyramids – Am I in an Indiana Jones Movie?

Sweating, so I decide to wear shorts today, which is a Muslim no-no.

I take the metro and get off at Giza Station.  A taxi driver named Zizo (zee-zoo) offers to take me to the pyramids for 5 EP ($1), I say no but 5 minutes later I agree because he seems upstanding.  In a very round about way, we take the freeway and the pyramids appear in the distance.  They are spellbinding and taller than I thought.  He asks if I want to stop by his house, yah right – no.

We end up in some back-alley neighborhood at some “official government tourist” office where they offer tours.  Zizo leaves (I give him 10EP) and I listen to the sales pitch.  “360″ the salesman tells me.  I talk him down to 240.  Then we bargain and negotiate as it has been done for thousands of years here in Egypt.  Apparently, they are supposed to be really good and they are.  I talk him down to 200 ($40).  This includes a guided tour on horseback (or camel but I heard horse is better) and 60EP entry fee for 1-1/2 hours.

I have not been on a horse since I was about 8, but it is just like riding a horse, so I pick it up pretty quick.  We travel on our horses across the desert, which has a timeless feel to it, to a high hill first for photos of all 9 pyramids together, and then he takes me galloping, whoa!

After a quick lesson, I also get to ride my horse on my own for a while.

The pyramids are incredible, just amazing.  Easily the highlight of my trip by far up to this point.  There are tourist police in white uniforms everywhere.

The pyramids are roped off so I do not touch one like the one I wanted.  Ah, they are so cool.

Its cool being on a horse and bouncing around.  I have a new respect for Hollywood stunt riders and the archers back in Nikko, Japan.

The Sphinx is truly incredible as well.  It is hot today but there is a nice breeze.

Sales people are wondering all over selling souvenirs, camel and horse rides, water and more.

My guide speaks English but because of his heavy accent, I only understand half of what he says.

I have the option to dismount and end my tour at the Sphinx and I do.

I go for a walk for an up-close look at the Sphinx.  It is majestic with its long front legs and tail that wraps around.  I sit and soak up this moment, admiring the artistry.

I leave the park area (the exit guard says I can return) for 2 glasses of fresh squeezed OJ, since I have not had water all day.  Next, I head back to the park because I need to see the Pyramids again for the full experience.

The entry guard says, “ticket is used up.”  Whatever.  Nice try.

So they let me back in.  On the map, it looks like the pyramids are right by the city, but it is a good walk and the park area is vast, especially behind it.  It looks like an endless desert.  Cairo gets about 1 inch of rain per year.

Some of the locals call me “Omar Sharif” or “Ali Baba.”

I enjoy the surreal moment, leave the park, and hear a passing taxi driver yell “bin laden!” as I head towards another delicious glass of OJ.  The OJ guy tells me that the bus over there will take me into town for 1/2 pound (10 cents).
Awesome.

However, after an hour of waiting with a group of people, we learn the bus does not work, so I get more OJ, and groups of young teenagers want their photo taken with me.

I end up catching a bus on the main street and it´s a 30 min bus ride to the metro station, where I see the same kids again.

I learn that some Muslims have bruises and rug burns on their forehead from touching their head to the floor for prayers 5 times a day.  Egypt became Muslim around 640AD.
Marriages are usually arranged, and it is determined financially.
Men are forbidden to wear gold because of modesty, just as the women must cover up.

On the subway, they have 2 cars that are for women only.
Its rush hour now and the metro are packed.  Cairo is close to being the most polluted city in the world.

While searching for food around hostel, I see locals smoking the Hookah and playing backgammon and dominoes.

That night, I hang out with the 5 guests in my room and watch a local soccer game played at nearby Cairo Stadium.

Tuesday June 8th – King Tut and 4000 Years of History

I am told that all of the car horns are “Egyptian music.”
On my way to the National Museum, an old Muslim woman gave me a dirty look because she thought I was taking a photo of her.

The giant two-story burnt orange museum has guards every 20ft and a fence around the compound.  You pass through two sets of metal detectors and no photos are allowed inside.  The place is crawling with tourist groups.

Inside beneath the high grand ceilings, there´s multitudes of statues and artifacts behind glass.  The non-English speaking guards inside make sure there´s no touching or leaning.
All of the security is because of the countless ancient items stolen or missing.  There´s an exhibit emphasizing Egypt´s hope for there return.

Among the treasures are:
- Statues made from wood covered in black resin inlayed with gold and bronze,
ivory, granite, limestone, and/or plaster.
- The actual Rosetta stone
- Statues of Anubis, Isis, Osiris, Horus, and more
- Chariots, beds, mummies (human and animal – crocs, giant fish, snake,
cow,etc)
- Hundreds of sarcophagi.
- Tutankhamen’s tomb was the greatest discovery, complete with gold headdresses and coffins, a thrown, and scepters.
King Tut died when he was 13 and did nothing.
Some Egyptian Pharaohs would erase carvings and change the names of previous rulers.

After watching some of the movie Memento back at the hostel, I head out across the Nile river and onward to the Agricultural Museum (closed).

I explore the back alleys and side streets to the packed metro to go to the main rail station to inquire about Luxor overnight train tickets.
Luxor is 9 hrs south and 674 EP
Alexandria is 3 hrs north on the Mediterranean and 38EP.

Back at the hostel, I hang out with guests and study Luxor, Egypt, and Islam.

Wednesday June 9th – Roller Coaster Bus Ride

After sleeping-in and packing, I read about Islamic women and check out.

I like Egyptians, outside of the touristy areas; they are happy, considerate, good-hearted people.  “Welcome” they say as I pass.  Inside the touristy areas, we´re considered “dollars with legs.”  They do not want to go to war with anyone and have a sense of citywide comradely.

Around the corner is a movie theater, so I buy a ticket for Prince of Persia (good).  The theater is nicer than I expected, with assigned seating.  It´s only 10EP, in English with Arabic subtitles.
During Intermission, people run out to smoke.

I walk to train station and the last train is at 6pm.  I ask a white guy named Mohammad a question and he speaks English and Arabic.  He is originally from Cairo and is going to Alexandria (has a house in both).  He is going to pick up his car.

Outside the train station are illegal mini-buses (25EP).  We get on one and then switch to another, then the police show up so the buses scatter.  After some confusion and walking around, we find out that the buses went behind the building to hide from the police.

We find another bus and it is the size of a large mini van and carries 15.
Its 2 long hours to Alexandria.  Arab pop music in surround sound comes on, and it actually sounds good.  What a crazy adventure this is.

The van is flying, speeding past cars in heavy traffic.  Mohammad gets off outside the city.
In Alexandria, there´s a big modern City Centre Mall and a Carrefour (supermarket) like in Dubai, which is nice to see.

I get out at Alexandria Train station and have no map.  It´s 8:30 and the sun is setting.
What to do?

Why not go to the beach?
I take Mohammad’s advice and take a taxi (10EP, the driver tried 20) to the Metropole hotel, a block away from the water.

As the beautiful lights that line the Mediterranean catch my eye, I am immediately happy with my decision.  It is very cosmopolitan, bright, lively, with lots of horse drawn carriages, and Greek influence.  There´s no beach just boulders with fishermen.  Many people say hello and ask me quick questions.

Suddenly I discover festive music coming from a closed street with several men dancing.  Drums are playing and a man in a suit is walking around launching fireworks in the air.  Feels like a Friday night, not Wednesday after 10.
In a small park, I rest on a bench, talking broken English with locals; I learn it is busy like this every night.

Nowhere to sleep, so I walk and walk looking for a spot with no luck and people are everywhere – so many.  No hostels but I find another park with playful cats and dogs and someone sleeping on a bench nearby, so I lay down on a bench as well.  Its 12:30am and cold.  Some guy wakes me up at 5am.  He moves my bag out from under my head and causally asks if I have money or a phone and I say no.  He asks my name and then sits nearby.  Weird.

Thursday June 10th

The sunrise over Alexandria is beautiful and the streets are finally empty but full of trash.  There are just too many people.

I am not sleeping like that again, so I decide to see the city for today then take the mini bus back to Cairo tonight.

I walk along the water to the end of the boardwalk to see a castle.
Next door, some school kids get into a fight during recess and then a man puts one arm over his head and grunts at me.  This is all followed by a car that plays”Old’ McDonald” when backing up.  What a morning.

Luckily, I find a government tourist office and the Library of Alexander the Great is close by.

Next door to the library is Alexandria University and the students are all over the streets, running around with papers and books in front of bookstores and cafes.  It´s exam day.  I grab lunch – two delicious falafel sandwiches for 2EP (32 cents).  Wow.

Finally inside the elegant Library (called Bibliotheca Alexandrina), I´m surrounded by lots of student groups today.

The library is about 9 stories with wood floors, black marble, and steel.  It´s very modern and tasteful with printing press artwork.  There is free Wi-Fi and most books are in English.  The library keeps a back-up copy of every Internet page since 1996.

After the library, I head back for two more sandwiches.  The fun owner of the cafe is named Sabray (he´s Nubian, has 2 wives – “I am strong” he boasts).

As I walk to the train station, a kitten follows me because he thinks I have food.
As soon as I arrive, the mini bus drivers fight over me.  My driver is crazy and has road rage in heavy Cairo traffic.  I almost leave my iPod on the bus.

Back at the hostel, I eat and relax as I watch Egyptian TV (they edit out any kissing).

Friday June 11th

I decide to go on a walking tour of Cairo, which leads me past the American University of Cairo and then along the Nile river.

After I pass of the armed guards at the Four Seasons Hotel, I head towards the white 500 room Abdeen Palace (the white house of Egypt).  It was finished in 1874 to celebrate the Suez canal.

The streets are full of men today for Friday midday prayers.  So, when you look down a busy street, you see a large crowd gathered in the intersection.  I am taking side streets as not to be a distraction.  Surprise, a Papa John´s pizza place.

Back at the hostel, I meet some new guests and the five of us go out to dinner, the hostel is World Cup crazy.

Saturday June 12 – Nothing

Today I relax and walk around town with other guests.  That evening, we watch another game of the World Cup at the hostel.

Sunday June 13 – On to Istanbul, Turkey

After checking out, I catch the bus for 18 cents to the airport.

I breeze through customs and security this time,

and now on to Istanbul!!