Archive for September, 2010

Sunday July 11th – What the heck is in Portugal anyways?

The train arrives at 7:45am to Lisbon (Lisboa). I’ve had a night of numerous sleeping positions and crazy dreams.  The directions to the hostel are horrible, but I find it eventually and sleep ’til 3pm.  Pedro the manager is awesome.  We talk shop and I learn the Hawaiian ukulele is from originally Portugal.   I plan the next 3 weeks of my trip and all the guests watch the World Cup final in the lounge (Go Orange!).

Monday July 12th – The Castle

Near the hostel, I sit on a bench at a small park on top of a hill overlooking the city. There’s a large white church behind me with bells ringing. The weather is perfect today.  Music gently plays as people quietly sit at an outdoor cafe. It`s a rough life.On my left is another hill with flags waving on top of a castle, named Castelo de Sao Jorge, the highest point in the city.  I decide to go for a walk towards the castle, only first discovering an open square with a view of the river and city, and a model shoot going on.
Up at the castle, the admissions guy gives me the 1/2 price student rate (awesome). Built in the 1000s by the Muslims, the castle overlooks the entire city. In the distance across the river is a towering statue of Jesus with his arms spread out, similar to Brazil’s. The castle was renovated in 1930 and could be an ideal movie set.   It’s nice and breezy as the flags wave above me.  On my way out, I spot a couple of peacocks. Really?  Back at the hostel for dinner and relaxing.

Tuesday July 13th – The cable cars are like a carnival ride

I walk downhill through the maze of streets to the riverside and take the metro to Sao Sebastian.   I take a look inside an El Corte Ingles, a department store like Macy’s.  It’s overcast today and pleasant. I’m feeling better.  Nearby is a pond followed by a large long grassy tree-lined promenade with manicured hedges called Parque Eduardo VII. There’s a giant Portuguese flag and a fountain with two stone towers. The view leads all the way back down to the river.  I begin walking downhill to a roundabout with a tall monument called Marques De Pombal, then through some side streets past a park to another lookout point of the city.   While walking, I discover the Parliament building.  There are two guards in nice uniforms marching back and forth with perfect cadence. There’s a van full of police.
Onward to the Basilica da Estrela and across the street to Jardim da Estrela (garden), this is a lovely park, really quite nice.    I hop on the #28 cable car across town, which is fun like a carnival ride. We come upon a traffic jam and have to sit in the car for 1/2 hour.  At the hostel, I sleep for 2hrs and get ready for my flight to Geneva.

Wednesday July 14th – Did that guy just steal her scooter?

I check out at 5am. As I walk downhill to the train station, it’s still dark out and the streets are empty and quiet.
I arrive just as it starts sprinkling. Need sleep.  At the airport, a guy approaches me and asks in broken English if I’m a rawfoodist. I guess we can just tell by looking at each other.  There’s barely anyone on the plane and I know why.  Don’t fly TAP Portugal Airlines.
As we land in Geneva, you can see many small farms and mansions with manicured estates like in the movies.  Mount Blanc is in the distance.  So far I like the country.   Currently, the exchange rate is 1CHR (Swiss Franc) = $1USD. Yikes it’s expensive, but the money looks cool.  The bus for one hour is about $4.  There’s construction in town for new light-rail tracks.  Geneva has evidence of humans going back 12,000 years and it became a banking center in the 1700s. Considered the city of peace, Geneva is the birthplace of the Red Cross and is known for its chocolate.  Geneva is next to Lake Geneva (largest in Europe) which has an extremely high fountain shooting water into the air.
I get off at a random bus stop and I am rewarded with a long park called the Bastions filled with Swiss students playing badminton, large-piece chess, and sitting in the grass.  In the park, there’s a long wall monument with 4 main statues of priests.  I purchase a small piece of chocolate at a shop and continue past a brass band and a farmers market.   As I cross the river, I can see the Jet d’eau (water jet), a Ferris wheel, and a swan. I find another chocolatier and taste 3 kinds: dark, Cognac, and hazelnut. (Jim Carry from Liar Liar: “I’ve had better”)  After I explore the tourism office, I discover a natural foods health store. Lunch is $19.
Nearby is a small park on the lake with fountains, griffins, and a Cinderella-like castle called Monument Brunswick.  Marble sculptors are underrated.  I think I just saw someone on a scooter rob a tourist. In the distance, I can see her yelling and people nearby are gathering to help.  I don’t see why Geneva has to be so expensive. What’s the reason? Venice I can understand.
Oh wait, awesome! There’s a dock that leads out onto the lake with a high diving platform. I am so excited, I’m practically running. Hundreds of people are here playing in the lake, sun tanning (some topless) and relaxing.  Only 2 CHR. I change and immediately climb to the highest platform, which is way higher than it looks! I learn it’s only 10m (33ft) but it feels like 40ft and you smack the water hard. The view of the lake and city from the top is excellent.  It’s a great 360 view.

Afterward, I casually walk back to the train station and catch the 7:10pm to Bern.  The Swiss countryside is amazing of course: Chalets, mansions, snowcapped mountains, lakes, farms with cows, and green forests.  I transfer trains at Bern for the town of Interlaken and arrive at about 10pm. It apparently just stopped raining (yeah!).  I walk a short distance to the Heidi Hostel and arrive just as the front desk lady is leaving.  The place is like a giant old Swiss house. There are USA license plates on the wall and lots of Swiss decorations. I have the 7 bed dorm to myself tonight.  Good….sleep.  No Wi-Fi? What?
I tried and tried to call my sister Holli. Happy Birthday!  Thunder rumbles in the distance.

Thursday July 15th – You’re Going to Bern

As I check in, I tell the elderly Herbert and Heidi that I used to be a hostel manager and it turns into an hour conversation. They really need some advice. We agree to talk tonight.  Outside, one of the guests backed into a parked car, while the owners were watching.  I hop on the 11:06am train to Bern and as the ticket lady comes by I realize the hostel still has my passport.  Bern is a wonderful city. It’s the capital of Switzerland and very green with nice parks and locals playing chess. There’s a turquoise river flowing below and a great view. As I walk around downtown on the stone streets, I notice bronze and gold sculptures of red monkeys, jesters, lions and griffins coming out the sides of the buildings.
On the other side of a bridge is a brown bear enclosure called Baren Park Bern along the river and its feeding time. A worker is scattering vegetables and the bears and cubs are running around. Everyone’s watching.  I walk down to the water and dip my feet in. Lots of people are sitting along the edge with their feet in the water. It’s not as cold as I thought. The river is moving fast.  I walk along the riverside trail enjoying nature. There are a lot of trees here as I walk up a path and across the bridge.  I go into a grocery store but can’t find any chocolate(?). As I check out, the lady says “upstairs”.

There’s an entire area just for chocolate!  I buy a variety and a couple are good. They had Jack Daniels chocolate. One brand I tried had mold on it and I returned it. So far, Belgium chocolate is consistently the best I’ve ever tasted.  But Switzerland does have Swatch, Patek Philip, Swiss Army knives, Einstein, bears, Swiss cheese, Swiss Bank accounts, and skiing. I hop on the bus to site-see ($3.80 for one hour). After going around the city, I get off at the Einstein museum.

I walk across the bridge into town to the train station past jugglers, violinists, and xylophone players to catch the 6:04pm to Interlaken WEST.  Back at the hostel for dinner and some Swiss TV, I notice the Swiss really love Einstein.  Heidi is too busy tonight to talk about business and would like to talk tomorrow.

Friday July 16th – The Swiss Alps

I walk through Interlaken, past a Chocolate shop, activities desk (Skydiving costs too much), a sex shop (last one before Jungfraujoch!), a casino, and a Japanese garden. After walking along the picturesque river, I arrive at the second train station, Interlaken Ost (East), and book the 12:05 train to Grindelwald, high in the Swiss Alps.  High cliffs, waterfalls, green fields, a grey river, and cottages – so much fun!
I get off the train and go for a walk through Grindelwald, down to a nature path along the river. The water is crystal clear and freezing. After a few moments of having my feet in the water, the ice cold water painfully stings my feet. I relax and enjoy the scenery.  Later I walk to the Mannlichnbahm, a long chair lift ride.  Grindelwald is like a painting: Idyllic mountains and valleys with quaint homes. I cannot recommend the Swiss Alps in summer enough – a must see.   Its warm today and I walk back uphill for some watermelon and catch the next train back to Interlaken.  After visiting 2 chocolate shops, I head back to the hostel, just in time to miss the heavy rain.  While watching more Swiss TV showing track and field, there’s lightning and thunder in the background outside.

Saturday July 17th – High School Reunion

After checking out, I catch the 11:06am train to Zurich.  In Zurich, I meet up with an old friend from high school named Ben and we go for a walk and catch up on old times over a drink at a cafe.  He works for the UN and we talk about Europe and traveling. Good times.  Later I walk around the nice city of Zurich and see the sites, such as the swans, the parks, the river, and the lake. There’s a light rain today.  On the 4:40pm train for Feldkirch, Austria at 155km/hr, I say goodbye to wonderful Switzerland.
Arriving around 6:30pm, I decide to walk the short distance instead of taking the bus.  It starts pouring rain and I’m soaked.  Feldkirch is a small medieval town on the Austrian/Liechtenstein border. The hostel is in a building 1000 years old, yet everything is very nice and modern inside (elevator, etc.). The building used to be a mental institution and a place for suffers of the plague and leprosy (if you have all three you get a discount).   Tomorrow I visit the tiny country of Liechtenstein. (hint: it`s probably tomorrow’s Jeopardy question).    Coming up next is beautiful Austria and Liechtenstein!

Monday July 5th – MONTE CARLO

After arriving in Ventimiglia, I quickly catch the full 11:31 train to Monte Carlo, Monaco. Now everything has switched from Italian to French (signs, police, and advertisements).
I arrive in wonderful Monte Carlo and learn there is no train to Barcelona today, which means I will lose my deposit for my hotel tonight.  Since I only have 2hrs to see Monte Carlo before the next train to Nice, I decided to hop on the #1 bus to sightsee.
A nice English gentleman helps me. He’s lived here 35yrs and says it’s a very international city and there’s always an event going on.  Around the city there are lots of Grand Prix/Formula One (F1) decorations, exotic cars, scooters and motorcycles, and expensive real estate.  The harbor looks like a yacht factory with about 100 in port.Up hill, there’s a large 12ft picture frame for photos with tons of tourists.
Monte Carlo is beautiful: a small cove surrounded by mountains, great views, and bronze F1 race car monuments all over.
Traveling through the well-maintained city, I pass manicured gardens, flowers, and lots of artwork.

Back on the train to Nice (France), which is larger than Monaco but not as elegant, I can see people playing in the beautiful ocean water below.

SOUTHERN FRANCE

In Nice, I have to immediately change to a disappointing 1st class train to Marseilles. The French Riviera looks wonderful. Inland, there are lots of small vineyards.  I arrive at 7:10pm and jump in line to buy a ticket for Barcelona (they couldn’t do it in Monte Carlo).  My next train for Toulouse leaves at 7:33pm. The ticket line takes forever and at 7:25 I have to jump out of line without my ticket to catch the train.1st class is much better this time. As I sit there, I learn that the train is delayed and won’t leave until 7:47pm. Funny, I could have bought my ticket.  Sleeping as much as I can and arrive in Toulouse at 11:30pm.

Tuesday July 6th - Who needs sleep anyways?

Midnight:  The subway is out front and I decide to take a trip to the capital in an attempt to find food, since the last time I ate was before Monte Carlo (16hrs ago).  I buy a metro ticket and it doesn’t work. So I purchase a different type of ticket and it also doesn’t work. The attendant tells me the trains have just stopped for the night. I ask him where I can find food and he leaves, coming back with a plastic bag with chicken bones and a baguette (thanks – which I don’t eat of course).
Later I find a pocket knife in the bag and go to return it. He thanks me but as I leave the metro I’m locked in. So he helps me and two others find a way out.  As I pass a strip club across the street, I discover that I’m not in the best part of town. I find a small cafe and order a green salad, which they bring to me covered in tuna.
Outside after eating, a couple approaches me and ask in broken English if I want to come with them to sleep at their house for a couple of hours before my train. They say the area’s not safe. The whole thing seems sketchy, and after I say no I notice them trying to persuade another traveler (prostitute and pimp maybe?).   The train station is closed when I return and the people waiting inside are gone. It’s 2am and the weather is nice. I watch Flight of the Concords on my iPod.   At 5am the station opens and I sleep inside until 6am.  I ask about the ticket to Barcelona but I’m told I’ll have to make a reservation in Narbonne (great).
I try to sleep again on the train. The countryside again looks beautiful with a couple of small castles and numerous small vineyards.  In Narbonne, the ticket agent says the train to Barcelona is sold out. I persist and he finds a way.
The next train to Perpignan is at 9:38am, no ticket needed.  I walk through town to a small market and buy peaches before hopping on the train.
Next after arriving in Perpignan (a nice small walk able city), I have 2 hours so I go sightseeing and grab some groceries.  Back on the train at 12:30 to the French border town of Port Bou.

SPAIN – Barcelona

Leave Port Bou on the border at 1:30pm headed towards Barcelona-Sants.   Along the way, there are beautiful fields of sunflowers and olive trees.   Sleep deprived, I try to sleep some more.   At the station around 4pm, it’s a major transportation hub - a mad house.   Now I have to get used to Spanish.   Most signs are tri-lingual (Spanish, Portuguese, and English). I get in line for a ticket to Madrid. Heading to the Barcelona hostel, the metro is incredible.   Victoria at the hostel is very helpful. No space is available to stay a second night so have to switch hostels.   I grab some goji berries from a local grocery store and hang out with lots of guests in hostel common room as we all watch the World Cup.
Later, I cancel my room at the other hostel to see about Pamplona (San Fermin) and the Running of the Bulls.

Wednesday July 7th – What an amazing 48 hours

The shower water is ice cold – whoa.   There’s a group called “Catalans” that don’t consider themselves Spanish or a part of Spain, but I’m told that if Spain wins the World Cup, everyone is Spanish.  I walk towards downtown, dropping off postcards and walking past the the Stadium de Barcelona.   Barcelona is a great city: clean streets, trees, appears well run, artwork,skate park, etc.
At the station I book tickets to Pamplona and Madrid, then taking the metro to the famous Temple de Sagrada Familia.
It’s brown, castle-like and gothic. I don’t know if it’s beautiful or ugly. Renovation is currently going on with 6 yellow cranes. The top of some towers look like baskets of fruit. There is a fake green tree in the middle with white doves. It’s very ornate and surrounded by tourists.

Walking through bustling downtown, I pass thousands and thousands of tourists. There are numerous churches, parks, fountains, and statues, including many street performers dressed in crazy costumes.  After visiting the large Marcat de St. Joseph (boqueria – a covered market since 1836), I walk over to another cathedral and to the modern Mercat de Santa Caterina.  And just my luck I find an organic health store around the corner called
Veritas.   (Organic horchata anyone?)
Down to the harbor and beach and then to pick up my stuff from the hostel. I see about buying some white pants but the store is closed for laziness (oops, I mean “siesta”). On the train to San Fermin, I talk with some Australians next to me about the free info map/flyer and Running with the Bulls.  On the flyer, there are fountain jumping, fireworks, showers, all night music, and a fake bull that runs around the city at 10pm. The festivities last for about a week and started yesterday. It’s going to be so much fun.   The Spanish countryside is flat with rounded mountains, similar to southern California: lots of farmland, wheat, bushes, some vineyards, windmills, and small towns.  “G-Force” plays on the train. Since I’m deciding to stay up all night, I try to sleep on the train as much as I can.

We arrive in Pamplona,  San Fermin at 8:40pm. The city is way larger than I thought. A lady out front asks if I would like a room for 50€. (Nope!)  I walk into town along a lush river to the roar of a fair with rides, games, and attractions. The Latin music is bumpin’.   Almost everyone is wearing head to toe red and white. I buy a red embroidered bandanna.   I find the path for the Running of the Bulls and follow it up hill, past police and workers installing part of a thick wooden fence.
I stop into a shop to buy white pants and ask when they close. The lady gives me a funny look. ”3am”, she tells me. In a small square, I find a nice shop and buy some pants. Now I’m in all white and red.  Outside, there are drummers, dancing, horns, singing, balloons, bubbles, and neon. It’s a real celebration. The entire city is alive and full of energy.  The sun is starting to set. As I walk around, I can’t believe so many people are not watching “Spain v. Germany” in the World Cup right now.  Now I know why, the street takes me to a large square absolutely packed with thousands of crazy fans watching the game on a giant screen. All age groups are out.
I run into a Canadian I met at the hostel in Rome. He’s here with friends from Mexico. Even though they have a place outside of town, they’re staying up all night. And then Spain scores and the crowd erupts. People are watching from the balconies.

White shirts are stained purple from drinks flying all over. TV Camera crews are filming us. There are pieces of trash and bottles everywhere.  A girl friend of the Canadian guy hoses me down all over with red wine (thanks). There’s a lot of alcohol here.  Spain wins the game and everyone goes wild – drinks flying. “I want my MTV” starts playing. People start climbing light poles.   I still don’t know where to put my stuff/luggage.  Whoa! Suddenly a loud firework BOOMS right near me.  It’s 10:30pm.  Some people want to take my photo.
I find a luggage storage place at the nearby central bus station right when it’s closing (I’m the last customer). Outside, a fireworks display begins. It’s so much fun as everyone’s frozen in place for the show. It’s so nice not to carry my bag. I can only hold so much in my pockets for tomorrow’s run. This is the first time I have not had my passport or credit cards on me.

Thursday July 8th – Let me see your shoes….

Midnight
After I eat, I go exploring and find another stage playing Latin dance music.  Later, I walk to Dead Man’s Corner to walk my bull run for tomorrow. A band is playing on stage at the main square.   A black and white movie of old bull runs is being projected on the side of a building. You’re not allowed to touch the bulls.   Walking around down narrow streets lined with bars and clubs, I meet a nice Australian couple from Brisbane.  We hang out and chat for an hour. They offer me a place to stay if I need one. Both drunk, she wants to go but won’t take a taxi, so they both leave so he can take her home.  Next, I see a girl get random beer sprayed on her, and when she asks for her oblivious friends help, her friend licks the beer off her. Wow.
I wash the sticky sangria off my arms, and go exploring, ending up at another concert going strong. The music is all in Spanish but very good – so much energy. Pamplona definitely knows how to party.  It’s 2:45am. I love sleep. The idea that I’m not going to bed at some point tonight is foreign to me.
Later I walk to the bull pen where the run starts and walk the course.  The street is mostly cobblestone, usually about 20ft wide. The bulls run about 21km /hr.  After Dead Man’s Corner it’s mostly buildings with boarded up doors, so there’s no fences to jump over and nowhere to go.   People are peeing in the street and wearing fake colored hair and LED lights.
More people take my photo and one was a co-ed group of touchy-feely drunks in their 40′s. They email a copy of the photo.   Above, there are wooden cartoon bulls on some of the balconies like reverse spectators.  Trash collectors finally arrive along with special red and grey police.
I talk with Rufus from NYC about the run while street sweepers come through followed by trucks to hose off the street.

I also meet 2 guys from Georgia that tell me that the officials will fire two rockets, one to get ready and the second means the bulls are in the street.  Workers start carrying in and installing sections of the walls and blocking off streets. They’re putting huge wooden posts in the ground, bolting them together, and then solidly wedging them in place.
It’s 6am. Sunrise. Camera men and spectators get positioned on the balconies above.   Standing in the street, I’m nervous and also impressed by the women who are running. It’s 7:10 and almost time. I find the spot where I want to start my run.   Everything starts exactly at 8am. All of a sudden, cops move all of us up the street and then kick everyone out. We all have to run around the block to sneak in through the fence and back into the crowd.  Coincidentally, I end up standing right next to the Ozzies I sat next to on the train.  A loudspeaker broadcasting in Spanish informs us about some of the rules.   Packed shoulder to shoulder, the police clear a long path through the middle of the crowd.

Suddenly a cop notices the black Crocs I’m wearing. After looking at them he says I can’t run, “get out.”   As I make my way through the crowd, some of the other runners tell me to hide behind them. I decide to leave anyways but at the fence, the same cop shoves me in the back and says, “GO!”   So it looks like after all this, I’m not going to be able to run today.

On the other side of the fence, the only guy there offers to swap shoes with me. He’s wearing brown dress shoes – and they fit.   After swapping, I muscle my way back through the fence to the middle of the crowd and ask the cop for approval again. Everyone is watching. He speaks with the officer next to him and says, “ok”. Everybody cheers and for the moment I’m a minor celebrity. The path cleared is for the Mayor to walk through, everyone claps.
Anticipation is really building now. I’ve had 11 hours to think about this.  The police open the gate let us spread out up the street where we were before.  Whew! The adrenaline!  Some people are jumping up and down and stretching.
7:55am
Clapping, singing, and camaraderie.
7:59 – We hear the first firework.  Bang!  People start walking up the street.
8:00 – Second bang and the bulls are runnin’ in the street!
I wait where I am like most runners until I see the bulls turn the corner and then start running.   The bulls are on you fast – no way to outrun them.  They fly past, one giant galloping bull after another, I’m about six feet away as they pass and head on into the stadium, to be locked up again.  Then, everyone’s confused in the street. A few gates move and four more bulls come through!  I run into the stadium arena and to my surprise it’s full of cheering spectators. Sold out.
There are about 6 hot air balloons and 2 giant TV screens.  The arena is full of runners, about half are lining the walls or on the other side. It reminds me of the Roman Coliseum. The roar of the crowd fills the air.

To our surprise, they release the bulls back into the arena, only one at a time!   I stay for about 20 seconds before I fly over the nearest wall.  The audience and runners are blocked from each other, so you can’t go up into the stands.
I watch 3 more bulls come and go then jump back in over the wall into the arena, keeping as much distance as I can from the next bull. People are touching the bull with newspapers and their hands. The bull is all over, totally unpredictable, one time coming right at me then changing directions.   People are getting hit and flying through the air. One guy tried to jump over a bull and crashed, and the bull immediately went after him.  My voice goes hoarse from all the yelling and cheering.

After 4 more bulls come and go I figure I’ve had enough of being in the arena and have tempted fate enough, so I hop back over the wall again.  The entry gates are locked but they finally open them and everyone pours out into the street, yelling, running, cheering, hugging, high-fives: it’s awesome.
I stand on one of the fences outside to see if I can find the guy I swapped shoes with. I see the Australians and Rufus.
I find the guy (Alex) and thank him a thousand times. The shoes are covered in dust.  Lots of people are congratulating me for swapping shoes and making it in the run.  Later, I find a photo shop filled with professional photos of today’s run but I can’t find myself in any of the pictures.  I walk to the bus terminal to Left Luggage to get my bag.  After waiting in the long line, I stop by more picture places to find a photo of me but there are none. Walking to the train station, I make it just in time for 1st class 11:26 am to Madrid (3hrs).Exhausted, I sleep for 2 hours and arrive in Madrid at 2:35pm.

MADRID

The Madrid train station is like a giant greenhouse with lots of plants.   I book my Lisbon train which is overnight and head to the hostel.  Real Madrid soccer is huge here and the metro system is pleasantly modern.  Germain at the hostel is very helpful. He upgrades me to a private room all to myself – awesome!
I’m so exhausted and sleep deprived that I end up sleeping for 14 hours.

Friday July 9th – Yup, did nothing.

After heading to Dia Supermarket for cherries and peaches, I am still so tired that I sleep and relax in bed ’til 5pm.  To Dia again for dinner and then to sleep. I basically did nothing today but recover.

Saturday July 10th – What’s in Lisbon?

After checking out, I hop on the C1 bus to sightsee around Madrid. It’s similar to a lot of other cities I’ve been to, such as Milan. Still not feeling 100%, so I’m just taking it easy today.   I see a tower while on the bus and walk there, but it’s a TV tower and this one is not open to the public.  In the subway, a guy comes on the train with an amp and accordion, playing music and singing for money.  In the train station, I relax in the garden and eat lunch. Its 2pm.
I listen to Eckhart Tolle for a few hours and notice that the ticket they gave me has me leaving across town, so it’s back into the metro.  Ready for sleep, I board my overnight train to Lisbon Portugal.

Adios Spain! Whew.